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No matter. I love it anyway, and it’s brought me more joy than I could have anticipated, and taught me to take pleasure in experience rather than focusing only on the Myteeshirtpalace-Calvin harris Skull fuck Coronavirus shirt result. Not even the broken bones that have kept me out of the water for too many months at a time have dissuaded me from the pursuit.
I’ve managed a few shoulder-high waves along the way. They were exhilarating, and I wouldn’t mind catching more. But I’m still at my happiest in the small ones, especially the mushy little nuggets we get in Rockaway during the summer. While I know I’m never going to have the ride of my life on one of those ankle-biters, I’m probably not going to have the ride of my death, either – and there’s something to be said for that.


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